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Matamoros Gate, Lugo
Lugo -- the Matamoros Gate

From Cádavo Baleira to Lugo

The day begins well. A short climb brings you to the highest point on this stage, and then you begin a long, gradual descent to the lowlands and Lugo, the provincial capital. During the morning, you pass through Vilabade, with its Consistoral House and a XVIIth Century church, all that remains of a great XVth Century Franciscan Monastery -- still impressive. Later, you come to Castroverde, where you have a chance at coffee and toast. Here the road goes by one of Galicia's few castles, showing a fine square tower. For most of the day, in fact, the Camino is beautifully rural.

Morning Mist in the Woods Lowlands Ahead Consistoral House, Vilabade Consistoral House, Vilabade Castroverde Castle Tower

The terrain stays perfect for hiking almost all the way to Lugo. Unfortunately, as you approach the city, highways take over the ground formerly trod by centuries of pilgrims, and the Camino runs on or close in parallel to the truck traffic. The landscape becomes less cultivated and more of a wasteland. There was nothing in this latter part of the day that I wanted to photograph.

But Lugo itself is a handsome city with much to interest a visitor. And its appreciation for fine Spanish food is legendary. Since it's just outside the 100 km point from Santiago, it's a good place to start this Camino if your time is limited.

Sea of Clouds Old
Sunken Road
Elderly Gent New Cruceiro The Roman Walls
of Lugo
Cloud Ponding An Old Road Elderly Gent New Cruceiro Lugo's Walls

Tips, Tricks, and Traps

It's 30.8 km from Cádavo to Lugo, and apart from Castroverde, which you pass when it's still early in the morning, there's nowhere to find lunch until you trudge into Lugo itself. It's a good idea to bring along bocadillos or European chocolate bars to get you through the day.

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